As I write this the Beatles' "All You Need is Love" is playing in my earbuds. Afghanistan needs a lot more than just love, no question.
Yesterday I had an opportunity to escape the first "wire" to see the Kandahar Regional Military Hospital, which we call "Camp Hero." I was a strap-hanger as one of the surgeons had an actual mission helping out one of the local Afghani surgeons with a perplexing case. We have also "adopted" a young 8 year old burned in a gasoline fire a while ago, and we visit him every time someone goes to Camp Hero. My mission was to see their ICU and ward, as we transfer locals there after their acute issues are taken care of at our hospital. I have heard some horror stories about the place - flies buzzing into tracheotomy tubes that we had surgically placed - that kind of thing. I had to see if it was true, and whether we should be nursing our patients closer to health before sending them to the local docs.
Sign on the bathroom door at Camp Hero: Translates to "Don't Wipe With Sticks or Rocks. Use Toilet Paper."
Camp Hero was built about 2 years ago by the US. It's a humble place, but pretty serviceable by Third World standards. The humility of the physical plant is not the rate limiting step in health care, of course. We prove that daily in our shack of a hospital here in Kandahar Air Field (KAF) - it's the people that matter, and we happen to have some of the best. The Afghans are seriously limited in this department. To become a doctor in Afghanistan one must attend school for four years, and then enter an apprenticeship which very roughly approximates our residency programs. The Taliban didn't help matters in recent years: As Greg Mortensen pointed out in Three Cups of Tea, the large medical school in Kabul where most are trained was prohibited from showing photos or actual cadavers during anatomy class in medical school - too scandalous apparently. Hard to know how to heal someone if you don't even know the body parts. It is fair to say that these doctors, few in number, would be more akin to physician or surgical assistants in our country. Nothing wrong with PA's, and they do need lots of them. But they also need trauma surgeons, internists, burn specialists, and more, to get through this war and beyond.
We met up with some US Air Force health care providers who passed along some of their frustrations. I respect these guys immensely. They spend the better part of a calendar year attached to this hospital, trying to get the Afghanis to become self-sufficient. These guys have few opportunities to share a joke or conversation with their peers. The work can sometimes be thankless. One of the biggest challenges they face is to give enough assistance (supplies, specialists, medevacs) to help out those truly in need, while at the same time holding back assistance when that may be the best strategy to get the locals to learn how to develop their skills, their supply lines, and so on. Too many handouts creates a welfare-like system which will never allow them to become self-sufficient.
We passed markets manned by kids - where were the adults? - and a field filled with old Soviet tanks and trucks. Our interpreter told us that there were mines inside that weird used car lot filled with gun muzzles and treaded vehicles.
The half-day I spent outside the inner wire expanded my world. I returned to KAF, noticing no children trying to 'fist punch' me, no detritus, no 'used tank lot,' only camouflaged NATO members walking to dining facilities filled with food flown in from thousands of miles away. I saw our humble woodshed of a hospital filled with educated doctors, nurses and corpsmen and realized it was a lot less impressive from the outside than Camp Hero.
