Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Operating Theater

Kandahar, Afghanistan

The British call the OR the "operating theater," which not only sounds cooler, but it truly is more accurate. I have not spent a lot of time in the operating room since I did my third year of medical school rotations, pre-9/11.  If one isn't  accustomed to the ebb, flow,  and etiquette of the OR one feels uncomfortable.  I had that sensation up until very recently.  

My recent experience in the OR prior to coming to Afghanistan was limited to challenging bronchoscopy cases in which the patient had to be placed on a mechanical ventilator in order to get biopsies to evaluate for lung cancer, for example.  It was always made clear that we were guests of the OR staff in these cases - we weren't part of the "club," we just had visitor's passes to go backstage.

I routinely go into the OR these days, for a multitude of reasons.  Yesterday my services were needed emergently when we admitted a gun shot victim via the trauma bay who decompensated rather abruptly, was intubated and placed on a breathing machine, and then had copious blood return from his breathing tube.  A bronchoscopy was needed to determine the location of the bleeding: the bullet had traversed from his right shoulder and was now resting below his left first rib.  It likely traveled through part of the lung, but exactly where, we couldn't figure out from CT scan.  I was now part of the OR-based trauma team, which felt good.  We found the bleeding and within an hour the patient was taken from the OR to the ICU.
I frequently go into the OR - which is located no more than 50 feet from the ICU - to find out how trauma patients are doing during their damage control surgery.  I need to be prepared for whatever messes have cropped up during surgery.  Occasionally I am able to perform procedures in the OR which help out the anesthesiologist.  I have good rapport with all the OR staff, which is clearly a new paradigm for me.  It doesn't hurt that I trained with most of these people in the US during our ramp-up phase, or that I eat lunch and dinner with most of them.  We are a small team, and game day is every day.

The theater part of the OR is at times fascinating to observe.  If a patient comes to our facility with "polytrauma" - a fancy way of saying the patient is mangled, likely from an IED blast - there is usually a team of orthopedic surgeons dealing with amputations involving the lower extremities.  There may be vascular injuries being repaired on other parts of the body by either a vascular or general surgeon.  The abdomen is frequently opened up to evaluate for damaged bowel.  Many of these procedures are simultaneously occurring, while the critical support staff - anesthesiologists, OR nurses, scrub techs and so forth, are quietly going about their business a few feet from the table.  These are small rooms literally stuffed with people.  They are hot, with a goal temperature of 105 degrees.  This is because the trauma victims are generally hypothermic from blood loss, and when that happens their blood doesn't clot well.  People are sweating through their sterile gowns and when the surgery is completed, they look like they have run a marathon in the Kandahar sun.
We are preparing to move to our new ROLE-3.  It is much more sterile and has state-of-the-art operating rooms, clean floors, no fly tape hanging in front of the OR doors, and no plywood signs declaring "Kandahar Institute of Surgery."  No character there, albeit it's probably where I would want to have my trauma surgery performed.  And though it is contiguous with the new and shiny ICU, it's a bit farther and one has to traverse through heavy stainless steel doors.  This relationship I have with the OR and the beehive of activity that goes on inside will soon be changed.  I will miss that.

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Little Romania

Kandahar, Afghanistan

Icon inside the Romanian Eastern Orthodox chapel

My friend Joe and I decided to tour the Eastern Bloc portion of the base this afternoon.  The NATO folks gather in various encampments throughout the base here on KAF.  The Romanians and Bulgarians have one of the more interesting compounds, as they have erected an Eastern Orthodox church on its periphery.  Made of simple plywood, it nonetheless is inspired and is clearly the most elegant structure on post.

For some unknown reason, the Romanian/Bulgarian camp has been the target of a disproportionate number of rocket attacks and have suffered several casualties.  Are the bad guys shooting at this stately church?  Just a thought - I doubt they are that good, frankly.  But it makes one wonder why.

The Eastern Bloc encampment is situated on a corner that abuts the legendary Poo-pond.  Maybe when the NATO reps were sitting around a table divvying up territory someone said "Last in NATO gets the Poo-pond plot."  There is an urban legend that is widely circulated here:  one of the Romanian special forces soldiers lost a bet.  He had to swim in the Poo-pond.  Adding some credibility to the myth is that he was found out and promptly sent home.  Last one is is a rotten egg!

Poo-pond at the intersection leading to the Eastern Bloc camp

Friday, May 7, 2010

Detritus of War

Kandahar, Afghanistan         




If this truck could talk...

I don't think we are much different than other countries who have fought their battles on others' lands - we leave a trail of junk, anthropologic droppings which point to our existence during the warring period.

Many of us comment to ourselves as we see new barracks being built, "what will this place be like twenty years from now when we have left Afghanistan?"  (God willing.)  "Will the Taliban or their successors be sleeping in my barracks room?"  "Who will be using the brand new hospital which we will be moving into imminently?"  I suppose if this is the legacy we leave, it's a lot more than a "trail of junk."  But will it remain that way? - that is the question.  Or will it someday become a source of revenue for some enterprising Afghan who figures out how to dig up the copper piping and wire to sell on the black market.

Russian tanks on the way to Camp Hero - lots of them

There is war detritus all around us.  Across the flightline there is a nipple-shaped object that rises  out of the natural contour of the mountain range - clearly a man-made structure comprised of mud and stone.  The rumor is that it is one of Alexander's fortresses left here centuries ago.  Hard to prove, but it's a great story.

A few weeks ago I ran around the flightline, a nine mile jaunt, during which we saw a half rainbow rising out of the Taliban-infested mountain range.  Ironic and incongruous, I thought.  We also spotted the wreck of an old Russian jet plane, presumably a MiG.  More appropriate, I thought.


Wreck of a Russian MiG

This past week I noticed more junk at the other end of the runway - old police cars and troop carriers.  There was also an old combi-van that looked like a surfer hippie mobile.  If only that hulk could talk, I thought to myself.  What stories would it tell?

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Post-Apocalyptic

Kandahar, Afghanistan

My new Dutch friend, Oskar, remarked that "it is post-Apocalyptic."  He was referring to how the base looked as we were doing our early morning run.  A fine mist of orange dust has settled in over Kandahar.  There is no wind, so you can't call it a dust storm.  Ambient light is dim and orange.  It is quiet, like when the snow falls, but not as soothing.  There are no jets taking off, as they typically do at this time of day - I am sure they are grounded for safety reasons.  You can't even see a city block's distance.  If I were a ship I would drop anchor.  Smart people are wearing bandanas.  Guess I am not so smart today.  After our run I wipe the fine particulate dust off my face.  I look like a ghost.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Rocket Attack

Kandahar, Afghanistan

If you can't make much out of this photo, I'm not surprised.  I couldn't see much either when I was lying on my belly a few hours ago.  We were enjoying lunch at the dining facility (the "DFAC") when the foreboding alarms went off, alerting us of an incoming rocket.  As we have been instructed, we all hit the deck, covering our heads.  One does this for several minutes and then seeks out a bomb shelter or "hardened" building.  I didn't hear the rocket hit but when you are able to hear the impact, the noise is a "shoomp-SHOOMP."  This is the second time I have had to do this at the DFAC - for some reason it's a little more alarming to see everyone hit the deck in the chow hall.

The attacks rarely have hurt anyone in the past several years, although there have been a couple of casualties and a handful of serious injuries.  They are scare tactics, used with varying degrees of success.  My lunch buddy actually filmed the scene today, putting his camera above the tables to see what he could see.  When we reviewed the video later we saw that about 10% of the dining hall was still sitting, eating.  My buddy joked that this was probably a good time to go up for dessert.  Clearly the attacks don't scare everybody.  Why test fate though?

On the way to the DFAC we noticed it seemed hotter than usual...  Last year the highest temperature reached was 128.  Only 114 today.

Friday, April 30, 2010

Dutch Queen's Day

Kandahar, Afghanistan


We've been waiting for this for weeks - Dutch Queen's Day, that is.  April 30th, yesterday.  There aren't too many milestones or events to put on your calendar, if you even kept a calendar, that is.  This one has been advertised all over KAF (Kandahar Air Force Base) for weeks.

My understanding is that the Dutch celebrate the birthday of their queen on this day.  I should have asked more questions - does the date change with the queen?  Or is it like Victoria's Day in Canada, same day every year regardless?  The Dutch still have a monarchy, so I presume it's the former.

The color orange is everywhere, the royal colors apparently.  I celebrated by getting an orange colored mango slushy.  Went well with my Dutch Stroopwafel ("Strope-vhaffel" - caramel filled waffle-like cookie).  Yes, this is a war zone.  I have to keep reminding myself.

Monday, April 26, 2010

Things that make you go "hmmm," part 1

Kandahar, Afghanistan


Me & Big Ben outside of Heroes, the British Recreation Center

My friends and I remark that this place is weird, and there are always weird sites, odd situations, things that make you scratch your chin and say to yourself, "hmmm..."

The Kandahar Hotel is one of those chin-scratchers.  It lies right behind the Cambridge (i.e. British - great curry) dining facility, and upon exiting Cambridge one always gets a glimpse of its big blue sign offering you a night away from your barracks or tent.  Why would someone want to spend good money to spend the night in a Conex box?  Hmmm.  The supposition is that this facility is used for, um, friendly relations.  That kind of thing is strictly prohibited here, at least it is for US forces.  I presume the same is true for the other NATO forces as well.

One can only imagine that attraction to the opposite gender grows exponentially with each passing day, month, or quarter here in Kandahar, or wherever you have hoards of young men and women away from their significant others, happy hours, or as the cartoonist Gary Larson would put it, places where the human courting/mating ritual is being performed (nightclubs, bars, Christmas parties, and so on).  I am just the scribe here by the way, commenting on what I think might be going on out there - no personal experience!

There is a funny Doonesbury cartoon which addresses this issue of attraction while on deployment - I found it hanging in one of our admin offices.  I'll insert below.

One of our Canadian colleagues told us that the last time he was deployed here, about a year ago, there was a small facility adjacent to the hospital staffed by Russian women who would give legitimate massages for a small fee.  It is now defunct, but I have noticed that the salon that cuts hair is filled with women named Svyetlana and other Russian-sounding names, and they are heavily accented.  I have to wonder if, once the massage parlor was shut down, they all defected...down the street to the salon.   And they don't give great haircuts either.  Hmmm.

I passed by the reception area for the Kandahar Hotel on my way home from the bazaar last Saturday.  My curiosity got the better of me.  The prices I had heard that they charge were true:  $180 for a single, $250 for a double, and $25 per night extra for cable.  Happy to note that the bomb shelter out in front was gratis.  The NATO barracks seem just fine to me.